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Sway Bar Link Won't Tighten

This can be a clear sign of a defective stabilizer bar. What the sway bar does is transfer the force onto the right side of the car while cornering and it balances and levels out the car so you can safely make the corner with as little body roll as possible. Transmission: tremec TKO. I don't think that should be ruined because there isn't really a whole lot to it.

If you are going to add a Sway Bar Drop Bracket, install it and then remount your end links. Learn how to change the sway bar link on Hyundai Entourage, Elantra, Accent, Santa Fe, Sonata, Veloster, and other models. Initially loosened the nuts with 14mm spanner and allen key, and thought it'd be alright, so I bought the replacement part for about 15. The problem here is that the clunking noise itself does not necessarily mean your stabilizer links are worn out. With urethane RBs, I'd want the suspension loaded. 3/8" open end wrench.

Actually, it's not that weird. You may need to compress the suspension to get the nuts in the correct position. So long as the truck is level left-to-right, there should be no tension on the bar, right? Pretty much just look at your first picture. So that all the relevant information is in one spot, I will update the current thread with any updates that Dan provides me. As I undid the nuts though they became too tough and the allen key started slipping. You can tell the vehicle starts to lurch and shake while braking. My links won't be here until next friday so I was figuring on replacing the struts and sway bar bushings today and then being able to check everything out next week when I put on the links. A battery-powered disk grinder is a great help as are battery impact tools. Today I replace my front sway bar links and as I went to tighten the bolt on top of the link all the ball joint did in was spin, which unfortunatly did not allow me to tighten the bolt. It holds it, while you use a wrench to turn the flange nut.

80 lb-ft. Verify the torque specifications by calling your Hyundai dealer. The interference with the axle when trying to get everything installed was the only thing that was tough about the install. This sets up for a flatter car in a corner, helping wheel alignment stay optimal for the correct tire patch interface with the racetrack surface, which is the ultimate goal. What jack point are you referring to at the front? 042 inches (roughly 26. If the end link won't easily slip into the hole on the sway bar, do not connect the bar.

0 mm OD respectively for the sway bar and endlink midpoint diameters (which correspond perfectly to the 0. You'll want the bar sloping down so just flip it so the PS is on the DS. For those of you who have coilovers and corner-weight your vehicles, you must disconnect your sway bars prior to doing any corner weighting adjustments. Because a sway bar starts to take effect when lateral weight transfer occurs, it is important we set the car up with the correct static weight on both sides of the car. Need an open end wrench for that. This will be most noticeable as you drive over speed bumps, and potholes, and as you navigate through tight corners.

Excessive roll during turns are also symptoms of a bad sway bar link. The rear endlinks get torqued to 12ft/lbs and the bushing nuts to 20ft/lbs. A key part of a car's suspension system, the sway bar link is susceptible to damage due to overtightening. Manufacturer: Energy Suspension. '99 Limited, 4WD, elocker.

However, some online research suggests you should have the full weight of the car on the suspension when doing the final tightening. MOOG bolt style sway bar links feature a self-locking barrel nut on the end of a polyurethane bushing that doesn't compress like a standard bushing when it is tightened. You wouldn't need to use the C-clamp I previously mentioned (though that wasn't hard), and it would be easier to get the bolt and all the components installed. OEM links (as far as I know) are the only ones that stand any chance of lasting a while. It is an important part of your car's suspension that makes sure your car handles right and drives safely by assuring and minimizing body roll during fast cornering and unexpected road bumps and potholes. 15 inch Pry Bar (for both removing original end links and installing new end links). A lift at work is definitely nice. Originally Posted by csp. However it can still be a hassle when you try to unbolt the nut and the allen key is moving all over the place. Inspection of the front end revealed split end boots on both of the sway bar end links. I'm no expert, and, in fact, I never heard of an (anti) sway bar until my bushings went bad this weekend.

But I assume I would have the same issue. I bough the Prothane 19419 Front Sway Bar Endlinks. Some people use Vice Grips to hold the middle of the original link/bolt if you don't have a 10 mm box wrench. I m hoping the car s weight on the A-arm is enough suspension loading. The jack s arm falls back down when I m jacking it up and there is no load on it. I removed the nuts on the original sway bar end links for BOTH sides before removing the original bolts. There is NOT a need to do an alignment after installing sway bar end link bushings. Installing from the bottom should be MUCH easier. You aren't supposed to use torque wrenches to loosen bolts. Is this normal, or can I tighten it with the X on the ground or does it have to be up on a lift to properly tighten?

Sat, 18 May 2024 22:21:14 +0000