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Have you verified system isn't overcharged or have a restriction and head pressure is actually high? Apart from swapping in a known good part, you'll need to use a voltmeter at the relay socket and the electric fan connector to verify supply voltage. Bill of Materials: - 740 Variant: Float Level Sensor Switch: Nohken LS-11P-0A, miniature 10VA switch (normally open) with polypropylene float, temperature rating above 100 C, and stem and flat flange face. For the thermostatic one (post ~1980), run engine, hang blanket over grille. Put new o-ring on the lip of the new thermostat, put assembly in hole, put cover back on, tightened nuts snugly but don't tighten with all your might as the studs are in aluminum: tighten just enough to seal the o-ring. Volvo fan won't turn off frozen. E) Mechanical Supplies: - Wire ties for securing wire to existing harnesses. Sometimes they stick closed.

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Volvo Fan Won't Turn Off Remote

I too put in a new thermostat and did a flush but it still ran hot. RTV or other sealant should not be needed, at least not with a new plug/insert. And, do you think it is possible the dome lights don't work because someone put an after market radio in the car, which also doesn't work well, very poor reception,, but that could be the antenna being broken off. Volvo fan won't turn off light. Use a razor blade scraper on the block. The only time it is safe to work on the fan, is with the negative battery cable disconnected from the battery terminal. You can fabricate a new mount by drilling out the spot welds on the old mount and screwing a flat aluminum plate to hold the 960 reservoir.

I assume this would kill the cat or O2 sensor after a while. The probe tube is attached to a thermostat which I connected to the radiator rail to the right of the radiator behind the lights above the battery. The paper gasket usually sticks to the block pretty hard. A few weeks back, I had to drive the car home in a torrential downpour, so if water was going to get anywhere it shouldn't have, that was the time! When coolant is low, the switch closes, allowing 12V from the panel to travel through the switch to ground, illuminating the warning lamp. The fan can run after the engine shuts off, but I've read about failures where the fan keeps running until the battery is dead. I) Snake the other end of the wire up to the firewall harness and to the lower firewall rubber wiring conduit just behind the driver strut tower. Fan Stayed On After Engine Off. Fix:] Try loosening the block gauge temperature sender a quarter turn then tighten. One contacts the coolant in the cylinder head or thru the radiator, one is just a probe that extends thru the rad fins, and one (like mine) has a probe that gets inserted into the upper rad.

Also, it finds leaks where typically none previously occurred. On the 940Turbo: the coolant drain is at the end of the short hose leading from the oil cooler, about five inches behind the oil filter beneath the car. The fan switch can be purchased at most auto parts stores. To test for electrolysis, connect the negative probe of a digital D. C. Volvo fan won't turn off remote. voltmeter to the battery's negative post. Volvo says to change coolant if you read 0. Chuck Jeckell] How do I remove oil that has seeped into the cooling system after my headgasket failed? Install the neoprene o-ring, then the fixing nut. If you are confused, use a flashlight and shine it through the empty lamp receptacle to confirm the position from the front.

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Remove rubber supports on bottom and transfer to new radiator. Our mobile mechanics offer services 7 days a week. This clutch is only slightly higher in price than a standard type. Other radiators have been reputed to have fitment problems. While this is crimped in place, you should also add a small amount of solder to secure it. The water is already out and the room you get is excellent. You can also add compatible anticorrosion (and lubricant) treatment and run coolant forever. It also protects the tube as one tightens the hose clamp around the radiator hose and neck. Let us know in the comments. Response 2: Dick Riess] Use the paper gasket only AND clean mating surfaces, including the bottom of head mating surface. On the gasket-to-pump, or gasket-to-head? Using a hammer handle I apply upward pressure on the bottom of the waterpump to compress the large rubber ring.

The trick in putting in a new water pump is to adhere the gasket to the PUMP side only and leave the gasket-block interface free of Permatex (or whatever gasket sealant you're using). I know the eBay part is not a VW factory part, but neither is the one from an auto parts store. Spray from back to front to dislodge crud stuck in the fins. There is no easy way to access them with a knife blade. If you cannot do this, use a pliers to grip the hose, and pull it off of the port in the side of the head. Get the wires straight, one is for power, one is for ground depending on what direction you want the fan to turn, i. e., puller or pusher. Remove the clamp, pull off the hose and drain the system; hopefully most will end up in the pan.

Diagnosis:] I pulled out my Bentley manual and it was plain as day (consistently high sporadic gauge readings) that it was the voltage regulator. Let it sit for awhile, then spray off with a high pressure garden hose (you can find a high-pressure hose tip at a hardware or garden place). Since they are not easily repairable, you throw away the old clutch and install a new one. 2w bulb; Volvo p/n 9128743-3 Lamp socket. Using a short piece of shrink tubing and a.

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Some coolant was pumped out and the engine temp gauge showed overheating but no damage occurred. Worst part is when it's not OEM (had a delete etc) that can throw diagnostic procedures out the window. Hose Quality Recommendations. Heater hose chaffed against block, rubbing through and failing; catastrophic loss of coolant. Buy the seal at the dealer. They supplied a rubber gasket that has a grove in it. One wire should have voltage to it at all times (engine running). Make it a regular part of your maintenance regimen. There are two pressure sensors together on the bottom end rail of the AC condenser (passenger side, behind the bumper skirt).

I'm talking about the one that attaches to the block near the coolant draincock, and then runs around behind the block. Response by Dave Stevens] For 940's with Regina FI (and earlier 740's) there is a temperature sensor in the top corner of the radiator above the transmission cooler lines. The plastic stopper is rough sided and a very tight friction fit to expand the rubber insert and prevent blow out, even under much higher than normal pressure. A failed water valve is probably the #1 cause of a secondary cooling system failure within 2 weeks after the first has been fixed (i. e. radiator, hose, water pump, etc). You might not have given it enough time to shut off,.... on the other hand, keep an eye on it. Pump Studs: [Randy Starkie] If you strip a stud, use the studs from your old pump. The pump is aluminum, and you risk a seal failure if you tighten one bolt fully before all the others are nearly tight. This wire was piggybacked to the wire. To remove you can simply undo the two nuts holding the thermostat cover on top of engine at front, the one with the big top hose from radiator connected to it. If you feel that some of this is beyond your scope of repair capability, don't bother with it. Installation Notes: Tightening the Nuts: [Tip from LK Tucker] The pump is installed by putting the studs through the two oval holes or one left hand bolt hole and one right hand oval hole and stud. Got home last night, which admittedly was able to do 70mph nearly the entire way as most is motorway that usually has some slower running. To clean both the a/c condensor and main radiator it may be a good idea to unbolt the two top radiator clamps that hold the radiator in place and remove the top plastic air dam.

In most of the incidents, drivers did not notice the loss because the coolant was pumped or blown under the car. Essentially, what can happen is water can get into your ECU box and cause a small pool to form in the bottom which, in some cases, can submerge relay 219 (which operates the fan). Engine Flush Procedure. 940 with VDO panel:Volvo p/n 966326-1 1. Replace the ECU cover if it is compromised in any way. Not sure on IH but Paccar is a Hardwired sensor that has nothing to do with the rest of AC system. Tips: - don't overtorque the hose clamps on plastic radiator connections or the coolant line nuts. Temperature Sensor Plug. I disconnected the inlet and outlet of the intercooler and the radiator/intercooler hold downs. They're ceramic and look a lot like an injector.

If this doesn't make the fan start then go to the relay and check for power supply on one of the two large gauge wires (one is feed and one is to fan motor, so one should be hot). The e-fan never came on without doing the following; I shorted the grey (low speed) and brown (high speed) plugs that were on the AC condenser, and the e-fan itself does work. Radiator Reporter August 1998: "Electrolysis Problems Continue to Mount", excerpted] Cooling system electrolysis is becoming a frequent problem. 00 worth of tank valves and screwed one into it. Position the hose clamp on the end of the hose, making sure that the hex head points upwards. You have been quite helpful... and I thank you for the time you spent in answering my question... My husband started car up this morning, had to take dog to vet, emergency, and he was expecting to have it run while in the vet office and it actually shut off. Hose clamp failed; lower radiator hose parted from radiator outlet neck.

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