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Sway Bar Link Nut Won't Come Off: Craigslist Pasadena Cars For Sale By Owner In My Area

Loosen the lug nuts but don't completely remove them yet. Next slide one more washer and one more bushing up the bolt. I purchased mine at Home Depot. From the old threads, some did and some didn't. Location: Milwaukee. Long story short, too late, you want a happy static sway bar. Install the new sway bar links. What do u guys think? I'm sure they need to be replaced (though again, I don't really notice any problems). However, that would reduce clearance between the axle and the sway bar end link on the top.

Some vehicles have specialized tools to hold the stud that is connecting the sway bar link to the suspension system, as seen in the video. The axle is in the way. Tried wedging a chisel between the link and the mount and still no luck. Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3. I never really looked under neath my car to verify. Make sure you torque it down when the suspension is loaded AND level. You feel every bump and hear loud noises from the car's front end. Allen wrench (6-point standard but can vary). OEM links (as far as I know) are the only ones that stand any chance of lasting a while. Bolt in each end, preventing the bolt from turning by holding the backside with the 18 MM (or 11/16") wrench while you tighten the 15 MM nut on the front.

We want the sway bar in a chill state, not acting on the suspension, until it's time to do its job. The 1 inch spacer is too long. I'm gonna go drive it now to see how it feels. It helps center the bushing into the sway bar or control arm. If this statement isn't a hint that there is no "special" tool, please accept it as a statement of fact. Optional: Dremel tool with cut-off wheel. MOOG bolt style sway bar links feature a self-locking barrel nut on the end of a polyurethane bushing that doesn't compress like a standard bushing when it is tightened.

The 4 inch bolt is plenty long enough after you start tightening things. How much that sway bar works is dependent on its thickness (stiffness). The first step is for a technician to go on a road test with the customer driving to hear what the customer hears. Two questions popped in my mind yesterday... 1. You may have to slide the top of the bolt up a bit to get the bolt to slide down into the hole in the lower control arm. If you're going to replace the sway bar link bushings you might as well replace the sway bar bushings too. Ok that makes sense. Online retailers often use a "stock" photo for multiple part numbers. The instructions do say not to over-tighten.

Hopefully it won t be too bad then. This can be easily checked by your mechanic at your next service appointment. The first step is to disconnect the sway bar link from the sway bar and the control arm. 09-03-2015 12:26 PM. Use or or something. Its not like you can just let it stick there? Sometimes that's true and sometimes that's not true. You will easily see the condition of the rubber bushings, bends, and damage to the sway bar itself and the sway bar links. Seems like the link/swaybar connection is an anchorage, not a moving part in itself (though obviously the end links & bar move) and should just be tightened? That makes it hard to get the bolt installed. Sucks because we just got an automatic car wash at work and it would be really nice to use in the winter. Sure, there are flats on the stud on the original end links to get a backup wrench in there, but it's a joke, even with good penetrating oil and patience. Any suspension component with excessive play will cause metallic clunking noises and worn-out sway bar links are no different.

I don't need to move the sway bar when I install them, I couldn't anyway as the sway bar won't budge up or down, are other trucks like this? I m hoping the car s weight on the A-arm is enough suspension loading. If they are greased then the rear will probably settle after a mile of driving. He said that picture is for the Tacoma parts kit (95-2000 TAC SWYKIT & 01-04 TAC SWYKIT) where they ship BOTH the 26mm and 27mm swaybar body bushings to the customers (who may require either the 26mm or 27mm swaybar body bushings - but not both). And then a crows foot, and try and turn it the washer tight on it, while you hold an Alan key and try and counter turn it. What I was trying to say, by not much is that it doesn't matter that much if it's in the air or not. That bolt can't be under too much tension when level - its designed to allow the axle to move up and down with the suspension... am I temporarily insane? I used a 4 inch C-clamp (top on the top of the flat part of the sway bar) and bottom (part that moves up and down) under the lower control arm. Like any other adjustable part for a racecar, the adjustability means there are more ways for us to put these parts on a car the wrong way. I removed the nuts on the original sway bar end links for BOTH sides before removing the original bolts.
It isn't hard, but there were a few things. Even though it is very simple, it makes an incredible difference in how modern cars drive, feel, and steer. What's the technique for torquing down the nut on the new one? Location: Gambrills, Md. You should end up with a bushing washer and bushing above the sway bar and a bushing, bushing washer, washer (if you decide to use them as a spacer), washer (if you decide to use them as a spacer), bushing washer, and bushing between the sway bar and the lower control arm, and the bolt should be sticking out the bottom of the control arm.
9/16 inch Deep Socket and Ratchet (for new end links). In fact I'd argue that this car doesn't need a sway bar at all. Removing the wheel is recommended for better access. '99 Limited, 4WD, elocker. Working on old cars means dealing with stuck nuts and bolts. How many pots have you smoken? So I'm gonna measure my sway bar and endlink diameters to be absolutely sure before ordering the sway bar bushings kit.

Upon questioning the technical team, it turns out that they do throw in an Energy Suspension tube of lube with the Daystar bushings. Look inside the flange nut and you will see what I am talking about. It's unfortunate that this is far more complex than it should be, so, to iron out the discrepancies, I will call technical support at both companies tomorrow, now that I've made the diameter measurements on my own vehicle (which I know to be absolutely OEM original stock). Because we don't want the sway bar acting from one side of the car to the other until we are in a corner, that means we want the sway bar in static form — while going straight down the road — not to have any tension.

I have that 105, 000 warranty so I'm getting mine replaced free of charge. The only way I can see tension being on those bolts would be if the truck was not level left to right or if there was another mount point on the axle, making the sway bar a load bearing component. So you use a Alan head key and try and counter turn the wrench to hold the stud still while you back off the washer from the stud. They are also different on the left and the right side of the car which means they are also not interchangeable in that manner.

And in order to get the nut to tighten, you need to hold that pin in the middle. And when I asked about poly, it just adds to the insignificance cause it deforms and doesn't make a good contact after a while anyway. Thanks for any info. 1 - I put the wrench on the back to hold the bolt in place while tightening the nut: #2 - After a certain point when tightening the nut, it spins and spins but does not get tighter. Note: Some people in the old threads uses Stainless Steel Nylon Locking Nuts. 12-30-2017, 03:55 PM. I fear is replacing these and then still having then dealer suggesting the next suspension component.

That's not good news. I upgraded mine but went with Prothane instead of the moog, I didn't want the same as oem with a different name stamp on them.... Don't forget on those that you must have a wrench to hold the main stem or it will just spin and never get tight.... I was hoping to combine the research I did plus actually doing it to make things easier for anyone else who may need to do this. Umm, that's why I selectively used the word "often" in that statement.

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