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How To Reinforce A Fiberglass Boat Transom

Once you find soft spots, they call for the execution of the steps on how to reinforce a fiberglass boat transom. If the splices are kept out of the middle, the transom repair will be stronger. There are two basic problems: 1) Accessibility to the deteriorated area and 2) drying things out. Sometimes the boat manufacturers drill or notch them (Diagram C) and the water gets in. Believe me, the water is bound to get in.

How To Reinforce A Fiberglass Boat Transom Repair Video

Although CPES™ will partially displace light moisture, in almost all instances it will be necessary to use some sort of drying method. Once you find rot on your boat, you have to get rid of it. Each strip should be about 1 inch wider than the previous one. Unlike standard fiberglass, this type of filler will harden quickly, and it will also dry very quickly too. We suggest that you consider our RHINO TOP, which is an acrylic/epoxy water-based coating that can have spherical sand suspended in an emulsion for traction. To rough up the insides of the fiberglass transom's inner part, you'll need a palm sander. Even if you have a small boat, single layers of fiberglass tape are often needed, whereas larger ships may need several. It can make the transom rough so the epoxy can adhere properly. Install only the first layer or two of plywood using the methods described in Plan A. You can see from the photo (top far left) how a typical small hull is stringered. But even if you aren't operating your boat at top speeds, it is still a good idea to reinforce the transom. Chisel the damaged core from the inner skin or use a utility knife (for balsa or foam), or a saw (for plywood). Use only epoxy resins for re-bonding, and we can suggest our Layup & Laminating Resin™ as being an excellent choice.

How To Reinforce A Fiberglass Boat Transom Thickness

Installing the Plywood Reinforcement. Smear a generous amount of epoxy on the bottom and the sides of the boat hull. Because of the boat's various designs, you may need a tool to cut through the external skin of the fiberglass. We show below hull-to-deck joints, and the various applications of wood. Installation of the New Flooring. You will need access to the entire transom plus at least 12" up the side and bottom of the boat. Again, this is primarily a power boat problem because the impact forces generated on the bottom of the hull require substantial stringer reinforcement. This can be a hassle because you've got to pull the engine. It is essential that the face of any wood not replaced be thoroughly soaked with CPES™. Fiberglassing the transom is the ideal solution. In this method, you need a palm sander to rough up the interior section of the fiberglass transom. This can lead to bubbling and cracking as well as a loss of structural integrity and appearance.

How To Reinforce A Fiberglass Boat Transom Repairs

Hardpoint Attachments: In addition to fiberglass reinforcements, hardpoints are an excellent way to reinforce the boat transom as well. However, if you are concerned that this will not present the same strong structure as it was originally, we recommend you use the steps shown below to restore the deck. After the core replacement is complete, the original fiberglass skin can be laminated over the new core or if necessary a new skin can be laminated over the core. Short-nap paint roller. 1) Fiberglass boats can be built with thick hulls and thick bilges, but the transom is usually much thinner than the rest of the boat.

Be sure that you mix each item thoroughly prior to beginning to use it, and make sure you apply enough for a good coating over every little thing that requires reinforcement. Here is a step-by-step outline of the repair procedure: 1) Remove the existing bolts/lag bolts that hold down the engine. Occasionally decks and cabin sides will delaminate from the core. Step 3: Setup Up A Fresh Core. Remember to apply the largest fiberglass layers first and apply progressively smaller layers until the repair is flush with the surrounding fiberglass skins. You want to find the edges up to the good wood and mark the area. The new core needs to be bonded directly to the old outside skin. Marine plywood, 1/2-inch thick, for three or more full layers of plywood across the width of the stern. Clean out with our Epoxy Solvent or xylene. If not, find a loose corner and pry down, then use a sharpened flexible putty knife as a chisel to free the rest of the core. Filling in the bottom and sides of the hull and new core gaps.

The pieces of wood must then be joined using a clamp. After you remove the transom, don't throw the parts away as you may need them for reference. It is also very easy to work with, wets out easily, and is epoxy compatible. You have to put 3 or 4 layers since the transom's opening is smaller than the core. Transoms not only support the weight of the motor, they maintain the shape of the boat, they are a mounting point for holdowns, towing eyes and other accessories. Post details on the forum and we can help with this. It had gone bad due to the motor mount screw pads crushing the wood from over-tightening, and from shock loads involved in hanging a motor off the back of a boat and traveling down the road at 70 mph.
Tue, 28 May 2024 19:26:07 +0000