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Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Won't Start | Keep It Real Shirt

A separate division, Gale Products Division. Pump body and loosing suction. Gears, there are timing marks on all mating parts. If the handle is just loose, to tighten it, you need to loosen this (#83) nut, then tighten the bolt to the desired tension, then retighten the nut against the outside of the tiller arm. However, I had screwed up and went from memory on the main-jet adjustment, setting it 1 1/2 turns out (right for the idle jet). Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start clicking. Check the twist grip to see that it has not jumped a tooth at the pivot point where the handle lifts up.

Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Won't Start Clicking

Either way, you will probably need to (1) pull the lower unit as if you were going to replace the water pump. One thing to do when taking the head off, would be to mark which coil is the top one (this will be an invaluable help later). Of the piston is increasing pressure in the crankcase. If fuel gushes out this coupler and all over your hand, everything is OK up to there. The one thing mentioned in some of the above information is that if a gearbox is damaged as seen below, AND the engine is OK, you could have all the indications of a seized powerhead, because on these motors (usually) the clutch is in the gearbox as a slider between the forward and reverse gears. Problems with Johnson 15hp. It will not activate the shut off needle. Try to rotate the prop, what you are trying to determine is that the problem is either in the powerhead or the gearcase. They have to use a different bag every day and I have found that the sides of this bag is near the thickness of most of these diaphragms AND seem to be gasoline tolerant from the minimal tests that I have ran. Another worse condition could be that the upper grommets at the powerhead, (both inlet and outlet) could be collapsed creating, #1 not letting cold water into the motor, or #2 lot letting the hot water OUT. Carburetor at a slightly advanced position, giving a richer fuel mixture for the. I have had one 3 hp that in restoring it, I could not get it to even pop with starting fluid.

If it only jumps on one then you have a coil bad or possibly a bad ground connection at that coil, or even inside one of the rubber connectors or the spark plug boot. To ground, killing the motor. When it is out you can then check the crankshaft with a flashlight at the actual seal contact for rust. Then use the cape chisel again. If it is moved to forward, then maximum speed can be achieved.

But upon trying to start it after the rebuild, only go it to pop a couple of times even using starting fluid. To have the water pump submerged (see above narrative). Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start battery. If the answer is yes, the magnetic switch and or connection is faulty and it must be replaced. Motors that sneak out of old barns. The one thing I don't like is that the spring clamp can not be opened enough to fit a 1/4" bolt head without becoming disjointed.

Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Won't Start 3

If you are working on an earlier motor, there may be a glass sediment filter bowl under the carburetor. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start 3. Be sure the block is clean at this location, with no corrosion or paint so the ground wire from the coil makes good contact to the block. Again for the early motors up to 1987, if the twist grip throttle handle (steering grip assembly) has developed enough slack that it is hard to find your position except if you move it from one way all the time. Ground out both the plugs so as to not damage the electronics of the CDI ignition, or leave your spark tester hooked up.

This will give you an idea if the fuel pump is functioning. Number 1 points has lots of room as seen in the photo below. Here I was only using it for trolling, and it ran POORLY, would not stay running at a troll for no more than 10 minutes, upon restarting, it took many pulls and when it did start would smoke excessively. Now when you try to start the small motor you have to pump the priming bulb for some time as your fuel line may be empty, and you will need to bring fuel from the main tank through that fuel line and into the carburetor. This model uses a considerable less heavy duty push button switch, requiring the use of the solenoid. On the later OMC motors the adjustment is different, (about 1986 or so) the timing cam plate that the carburetor roller engages is made of plastic with an adjustment screw on the rear (LH side) for fine tuning. On this older fuel tank QD coupler, it has no detent pin||On this newer fuel tank QD coupler, it has a pin plunger detent|. Broken cam plate on later motors, shown laying in position with a sheet of white paper inserted under it for clarity|. I then traded it off to a. friend who lived near the beach, only to have it die on the new owner. Be check the thermostat, these are usually rather simple to get to in. 2) The slow to engage will usually be caused by. This may happen when you try to separate the upper housing from the lower unit.

The shaft has square ends, mating with square holes in the gears. IF they get rust/debris or any foreign material under them, the motor will have problems, starting, or running efficiently. Initially it was thought to be the carburetor or the timing, but after much tear apart and adjustment, this one turned out to be the bottom crankshaft seal was bad. Another unusual, but.

Johnson 15 Hp Outboard Won't Start Battery

Need to re-check behind that. Once it is running, there can be many other things that may be needed to be repaired or adjusted to make it function properly. It you live in a area where fuel contamination can be a problem, it may be best to install a water separator filter system in the fuel line. AGAIN DO NOT RAISE the handle very high and twist the throttle at the same time for the 74-86 OMCs while you are running the motor unless you are prepared to disengage the gears, and change the twist grip timing relationship. The part may bolt onto your motor, but not function as designed. Notice the newer style uses a needle pin type. Is it just out of oil, or is there any evidence of water in the gearcase?

Then try to pull the starter rope. Use alcohol as a cleaner as it will absorb the water, then dry with no residue. Head/motor and covered by a bolt on plate. Stators on the mid to later 1980s are a weak point with some versions of OMC's. Remove only the top screw. Check the oil with a magnet. This ratio is governed by the construction of the motor's internal bearings. If you have replaced the condensers and it refuses to spark, you may have gotten a couple of bad condensers. This could be due to lack of gear oil, but usually it would be because a seal was leaking and water leaked in, then not used for some time, creating rust. If it saturates with fuel, your reeds are bad because the fuel is spitting backwards out the carburetor intake. 3 rd Pull the head & check for any obstructions in the water jacket & under the headgasket.

Here I use about a 3/32" drill bit and drill a hole in both of the housings where the bolt shank goes thru the lower unit AND into the upper housing where the bolt is threaded into. Pull the powerhead so you can get at the upper spine and be able to remove. Each time the upper piston moves back and forth, it creates a pressure/vacuum pulse for the fuel pump. On a cold start the recommended method is to pull the choke all the way out and crank it over it until it starts, within a few seconds it may sputter or may even die, push the choke in about 1/2 way and give it another pull and it SHOULD run. To do this you need to use snap ring pliers, which can be a bear because of the limited area. An old time motorcycle mechanic told me that if the points are that badly pitted, that you have other problems, as the condenser is usually failing, causing this pitting by allowing a high voltage through. I could get the engine to run for a bit if I dumped some fuel into the carb. Were changed from aluminum to a high impact nylon and the screws themselves made. If someone does not understand or they are poking around under the front of the flywheel they can break this plastic adjustment tail off. Solution is replace the line and use new. If the newer electronic ignition, shown in the photo below on the right, one wire (usually a black with yellow stripe) comes from powerpack to the kill button ( RED arrows below on the right). These screws can become seized if neglected, especially if the motor us used in saltwater, to the point where it takes a pipe wrench to loosen them.

Another situation that you may run into is that if you. Compression on this motor at the time it was taken out of service was 108# on the top cylinder and 105# on the bottom. 7) Fuel: For motors to run, it has to have an uninterrupted supply of fuel AND air in the correct proportions.

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